Paris
Between moving from NYC to LA, we decided to spend 2 months in Paris. We stayed between the 2nd and 10th arrondissements and loved the trendy bohemian vibe (think Persian food, hipster cocktail bars, and West African street energy). Many of our food recommendations are in that area, but we’ll call out the ones that are worth the trek even if you’re staying in a different area. Also check out our guide to pastries, charcuterie, and the Louvre!
Cafe Culture
The number one thing you need to learn quickly to enjoy Parisian life is know how to sit at a cafe for 2 hours:
First, don’t look for a host or waiter to show you a table. Find a set of chairs and just sit down
Second, don’t move chairs and tables around. If you’re in a big group then get a servers attention and ask them if you can move the tables
Third, be confident in getting the servers attention. They won’t come and ask you if you’re ready, and they’re expecting you to tell them when you want to order or need something
Lastly, just sit, sip, and watch. Don’t be in a hurry to place your order, eat your food, and move on. Feel comfortable sitting for as long as you want
Tip - if you’re just having a coffee or drink then don’t sit a table that has silverware/plates set out. Those tables are meant for meal times, and there will usually be 50/50 tables set for dinner versus tables open for coffee/drinks. If you don’t see an empty table then that cafe is more for meals than sitting.
Food
Frenchie Bar à Vin - worth the trek from any part of Paris, Frenchie kind of has a monopoly on a tiny street in one of the hip walking areas of the 2nd. As an American you can skip FTG (French To Go), which serves American food (BBQ, burgers, etc), and the main restaurant Frenchie’s is expensive, and more formal meal. Frenchie Bar à Vin is a tiny offshoot that has the same incredible food as Frenchie across the street and also offers a great wine list. Do yourself a favor and get the ricotta (if they have it while you’re there - they offer very seasonal dishes)! Go early to get a table - it gets super busy and Bar à Vin doesn’t take reservations!
Boneshaker - Tiny donut and coffee place
Kodawari Ramen - Really good ramen with a cool interior. We went here with a local we met who swears it’s the best in the city.
Boutique yam’Tcha - yam’Tcha is a Michelin stared tea house also featured on chefs table. This boutique is a window on the street that serves tea and steamed buns to go. Quick, easy, and afford stop while walking along
Itacoa - Brazilian inspired food and out of this world.
Urfa Dürüm - This kurdish sandwich shop is fantastic and authentic. It gets very busy between 9pm and 1am
See/Do
Yes, our top two recommendations are the two most famous museums in Paris. There is a reason why they’re so famous, and in our opinion the secret to enjoying them is to slow down and not try and do too much. Running around the Louvre to take a photo of every famous painting is silly. Find time to sit on a marble bench in a courtyard and just take in the overall beauty and appreciate the statues and architecture. You’ll get a lot more from sitting peacefully than you will from making sure you see every painting, artifact, and exhibit.
Musée D’Orsay - probably tied with the Louvre as our favorite museum. Situated in an old train station with stunning architecture and well-crafted exhibits. The impressionists room on the top floor is amazing both for the art and for the views of Paris.
Louvre (see A Guide to the Louvre below) - definitely come here at least one time during your stay
Palais Royal - a great garden to walk around in, sit by the fountain, and watch people play pétanque.
Fete de la Musique - an annual event where the entire city of Paris celebrates music on the streets, in restaurants, in churches, etc. Usually happens in June and is a phenomenal way to feel like a local. Wander around the city and try to soak it all in!
Space Invaders - A street artist who started in Paris and has invaded the world. There is an app, “flash invaders” you can download Android or iOS and snap pictures of his street are for points (like you’re playing the space invaders video game)
A Guide to Charcuterie
A huge part of Parisian life is sitting at cafes and nibbling while drinking. You can also create this experience at home (or on the river or in a park…). Use the guide below to craft your perfect evening.
La Chambre aux Confitures - pick up 2-3 of the perfect spreads (fig jam is one of our favorite pairings with creamy cheeses)
Julhes - hands down one of the best pastry, boulangerie, grocers in the city. Pick up a couple baguettes, some saucisson, other meats, and wine here.
Saint Denis Primeurs - A fantastic stop for fresh (and pickled) vegetables. Pick up some olives, cornichons, and radishes.
Terra Corsa - Whether you’re dining at Terra Corsa (their charcuterie is unreal) or picking up items for your own, make sure to stop here for their fabulous cheeses.
Versailles Day Trip
We highly recommend visiting Versailles if you are going to be in Paris for more then 3-4 days. You can easily take a train and then walk from the station (~10 mins). Definitely reserve an entry time in advance to save hours of waiting in line. Then just wander around the grounds! They have a number of musical and water fountain shows that happen throughout the summer. There are some cool evening events too so check the calendar.
You could easily spend a day wandering around the grounds alone so check out the map and try to plan your day to see all of the places you want to see. The old English village is neat. A bike is probably a great way to cover more ground if you’re interested.
La Petitie Venise is a restaurant in the gardens and worth stopping for food!
